Sketchbook and the Making of the Withering Flower 圖稿/醞釀中的枯萎花

THE WITHERING FLOWER / Central Saint Martins BA GRADUATE COLLECTION 2016
Sketchbook and the Making of the Collection
枯萎花服裝與印花系列的故事
從最初的於文學中找尋靈感、剪貼簿和手繪初稿、製作胚樣的第一件衣服、實驗布料的印染、到最後呈現一系列的印染洋裝們


“The Withering Flower” collection is inspired by the power of the flower image, its impact both visually and symbolically in Oriental setting. From the flower’s precise metaphor in classical Chinese literature, “The Dream of the Red Chamber”, which simultaneously reflects the women living in a feudal society; to the extend of how the flowers are interpreted in fengshui as well as gifting etiquette, I was vividly drawn to the Oriental world of defining the flower visuals.
”枯萎花“一系列服裝 構想源自于花在東方文化及文學裡的含義與象徵。 在曹雪芹的『紅樓夢』中,花的象徵比擬女性角色、十二金釵,各自的年華風情、或是花漾,或是流離。花團錦簇的盛開與枝葉的細細凋零,寫照出故事裡的女性在傳統封建社會中細數的光年。除了東方文學裡的擬花擬人,花於風水和東方禮節中也有舉足輕重的含義。我一直鍾情于研究花在東方文化裡的解讀,它的多樣貌、好似永恆、也好似短暫易逝的光陰。

I found the flower as a subject often perceived as readily available, and of easy access to the public’s eyes. It could be randomly seen as pretty, commercial, kitsch, or even mundane. Because of the blooming flower’s often delightful and appetizing appeal, I was immediately attracted to The Song of the Flower Burial in Cao Xueqin’s literature classic, “The Dream of the Red Chamber”, whereas the fallen and decayed petals beautifully yet melancholically symbolized the female protagonist’s struggle and sorrow in an oppressed feudal aristocrat society.
我發覺『花』這元素經常被解讀為大眾普及且容易取得,凡至唯美的、商業的、附庸風雅的、甚至了無新意的,『花』一物 能被詮釋的方式太多了。然而正因花普遍給人的第一印象是明媚的、笑容滿面的,我更為『紅樓夢』中的葬花吟所吸引。詩詞中賦予了孤自凋零的花瓣一些情感血淚,賦予了封建社會中壓抑的鼻息 些微無所適從的同理。

The flower is both the embodiment of life and the inevitable nature of transience. I find the preserved flower as a refined gesture of longevity, and the decayed petals as the beginning of a new life; although the decayed flower is often seen as a jinx in fengshui and the symbolism of misfortune in Chinese literature.
The collection takes on the traditional root of a decaying flower’s language in Oriental setting, yet I hope to interpret the commonly beautiful flower and the withering ones into an aesthetic, blending the stereotypical jinx with engineered beauty, reaching over norms as what appeals and what repulsed.. that the life and the cycle itself is a sublime transition.
花從綻放到枯萎的一生,既是新生的喜悅、也是自然中無法避免的歲月流逝。我感覺乾燥花像是小心細膩得勾描著永恆,而枯萎的花瓣則是另一個新生命的起頭。雖然許多時候枯花在東方風水的解讀是不吉利的,在文學中也多用於象徵不美滿、不完整,這系列的創作靈感希望將傳統解讀枯萎的元素賦予之新的含義:新生的喜悅與傳承的靜好。


“The Withering Flower” collection developed a series of printed and layered dresses. Each dress is composed of a different flower motif, with specific meaning according to the flower’s symbolism in Chinese literature. Whilst peony symbolized prosperity, yet poppy as sinister as sumptuous. 
The fabric reflects the depth of the printed colours accordingly to the light direction, leaving the colour of the flower appears differently throughout the day.
“枯萎花”創作發展了一系列的多層次印花洋裝。每件洋裝上的花卉各象徵著在文學中的含義,似牡丹的華貴雍容、或罌粟的邪美嫣紅。
布料設計使印花在不同燈光下,因光源的方向與強度,呈現出不一樣色澤的染印花卉。

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The thrill of holding the first piece of printed sample in hands, though they soon were destroyed by an experiment accident..
手中很興奮得握著第一塊印染成功的布料,雖然很快得被一項實驗意外摧殘了..
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Inspirations observed from Satoshi Kon’s animated movie “Perfect Blue” 1997, and Anya Gallaccio’s “Preserve Beauty” 1991
創作起初的靈感之一:觀察今敏的動畫電影 “藍色恐懼”,與藝術家Anya Gallaccio的”Preserve Beauty”鮮花裝置藝術
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1granary-csm-central-saint-martins-angela-chiang25-1380x890Inspired by Jeff Koon’s “Puppy” 1992, ideas of immediate affinity and pleasures taken in things that are readily available to the public
The number 4 is pronounced as “death” in Mandarin Chinese, hence consciously avoided in daily matters like telephone number, car plate license, hotel room, and traditional Taiwanese hospitals skipping the 4th floor in its building, instead labeling the floormap from 3rd floor straight up to 5th.
Jeff Koon的”Puppy”概念中,對於美好且通俗的事物、以及大眾普及化的美感很啟發我的創作靈感之一。
”四“這個數字與“死”一字有著相同的中文發音,在傳統文化與習慣中,下意識得被避諱著。舉凡電話號碼、車牌、旅館房間門號、至早期的台灣醫院在建設時,樓層標示三樓再上層便是五樓,意識得跳過四樓這樓層。
1granary-csm-central-saint-martins-angela-chiang20-1380x976Sketches and toiling / Experimenting with ruched and creased silhouettes to preserve image of the pressured petal
手稿與測試胚衣中 / 嘗試剪裁出不同的層疊和皺摺來呈現花瓣的皺碾
1granary-csm-central-saint-martins-angela-chiang17-1380x976Illustrations for Look 3 and Look 4 / Playing with my lingerie on  sketchbook..
第三套與第四套洋裝手稿 / 在剪貼簿上嘗試拼貼我的小睡衣..
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1granary-csm-central-saint-martins-angela-chiang16-1380x1035Painting large scale prints for screen printing / One of my favourite stage during all the development stage, exciting !
用筆刷畫出巨大只寸的黑白印花底稿,接著要製作成絹印模板了 / 這是我在所有創作過程中最喜歡的環節之一,非常期待!
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1granary-csm-central-saint-martins-angela-chiang14-1380x1035Printed chrysanthemum and daisy
印染出了雛菊與菊
1granary-csm-central-saint-martins-angela-chiang12-1380x753At the end of the day working in the print room, piling up all the prints and see them peacefully rest against each otehr.. soothing.
每天在印染室工作結束時,將每塊不料層層疊起然後看著他們安然地沈睡模樣.. 非常療癒

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